Category Archives: Fairtrade

Early steps in Fairtrade Gold – Africa

Julius contacted me via this blog back in January of this year. A Kenyan born activist, Julius had grown tired of the endless fundraising form filling you need to undertake when you work with an NGO. As a local Migori County man he had grown up surrounded by artisanal small-scale miners and was familiar with the lifestyles, environmental impact and social conditions that the many thousands of miners endured in order to to pay there daily way in the world. So I was delighted when Julius showed a considerable amount of interest in how Fairtrade Fairmined Gold could work in his locality. We talked throughout the year and planned. One of the biggest reasons why Julius approached the Fairtrade process, was because the local miners wanted ‘to be free of the economic slavery forced on them by the Asian traders in the region’.

Migori County (MICA) Artisanal Mining COOP was established to allow the local miners and traders to come together and to formalise their relationships in such a way as they could move forward to achieve Fairtrade status and begin exporting their production directly to the international market. Additionally by removing themselves from the economic controls of the bigger traders they would be able to increase their prices and begin lifting themselves out of the poverty that this form of gold trading creates.

Illustratively, the local gold business works through networks of local traders, linking with the artisan miners and then selling their production back to central processing  hubs were the production is weighed, tested for purity and then smelted into simple ‘doray’ bars (unrefined gold bars)  before it is moved to Nairobi and then sold to refiners in Dubai. This system is funded at the front end by money from the traders, who due to their financing, control and monopolise  the entire region.  They buy the gold at discounted rates as much as -28% as I discovered and then adjust for purity. Many miners complain of dodgy scales and purity testing. For example, I had one local processor boast about his cheap PC computer that could scan gold and give a 100% accurate reading on the purity. The genius of this system is it keeps everyone in debt. The local trader may make an average commission as little as KSH 80-100 per gram that he buys on behalf of the Asian buyers with their money. Everyone owes money to these monopoly traders and therefore you have an effective and very efficient form of economic slavery. Any deviation from the proscribed process meets with a swift response as we were to find out.

Over the course of the year, I and others had worked with MICA to see them formalise into a COOP, secure a direct export license and then create a traceable supply chain that would link transparently the miner to the end purchaser of their gold. This in an of itself is progressive as we had to work our way through the myriad of prejudice that exists towards small-scale miners from the refiners, shipping companies and potential financiers and business men, all whose lives are linked to risk mitigation and protecting their investments. Although understandable to a degree, it becomes untenable when in the name of ethics and justice people expect the poor to underwrite their risk with personal guarantees etc.

Anyway with MICA at one end and CRED Jewellery stepping up to the plate to act as the buyer, we booked the trip with a view to enabling the first direct export of gold from a small-scale mining coop from Kenya in the history of the country. The simple aim to enable the COOP to export it first shipment and thereby open up a supply route that would give the COOP access to the international market as well as lay the foundations for a vital part of their becoming a Fairtrade certified mining operation.

However, and this is where it came unstuck, the financial, social, cultural and indentured relationships that have governed this area for so long were not happy with the idea of the local miners being free to export directly, as this would be an erosion of the power they have in the region. Traders have all the power in these artisanal relationships and the COOP discovered that the wrong trader in the mix can kill a process by simply using the economic leverage they have to dictate price, pre-finance behaviour and loyalty. As we came to the day of the trade, it became increasingly obvious that the big traders had a plant in the COOP who simply killed the opportunity, withheld a part of the services needed and prevented the COOP from delivering. That same evening certain members of the COOP were visited by local bully boys and everyone got the message that this movement towards economic independence was not going to be tolerated by the invisible status-quo.

It is a strange thing knowing that you are so near, yet so far. I literally watched the gold disappear in front of my eyes. It was all there, yet the COOP could not bring it all together and deliver and of course this all happened on the same day as the money for the shipment arrived in the COOP account. Also I was now being advised to get out of the area for awhile as things were heating up and the COOP were not happy about the deteriorating security situation. So with driver and passport to hand I jumped into a car and drove to Mwanza to visit some friends there, while the COOP waited for the situation to calm down.

I learned a very valuable lesson on this trip. Traders have the potential to create problems in a way that anyone in the fair trade movement must never underestimate. The Gold mafia are a very real obstacle to change and we must have a strategy for dealing with them. And also that a quality relationship is often forged in adversity, as opposed to success. In many ways the COOP needed to fail on the first trade so that they could fully understand the scale of the mountain they want to climb and how much work they will have to put into their dream.

The COOP I am pleased to say as we parted company with them having transferred the money back to the UK, were very clear of their continued commitment to becoming a Fairtrade COOP. Are now much clearer as to what the obstacles are and also the relationships that prevented their first shipment. In truth we stress tested the system and in doing so all have a greater understanding of what not to do in the future.

Is there a future? Yes there is, and I hope to be able to update everyone on our progress early in the New Year as CRED and MICA seek to facilitate Kenya’s first export from a local COOP.

In search of the Jewellers Holy Grail.

The advent of certified Fairtrade Fairmined gold this year cannot be underestimated. Despite its critics rightly pointing out that in the early stages FT Gold will be of minimal volumes as to have a negligible impact upon the jewellery trade miss the point. They think in terms of mere commodity value. To the customer, a gold wedding ring is not a commodity, it is a symbol of an emotional expression. The ring tells a story and Fairtrade Gold ‘is the best gold story in the world’.

Alluvial Gold Dust

Now that customers have an alternative in Fairtrade gold it is just a matter of time before the simple truth enshrined in a narrative of transparency and traceability will drive the transformation of the jewellery sector towards a greater alignment between the source of our products and their true ecological values. Over the next few years we will see our industry move away from its moribund ethical mediocrity to rediscover it essential creative vitality as being a true art form, a craft, and a vehicle for the genuine delivery of economic, social and ecological justice.  Yet the journey does not stop with gold, this is where it begins.

Diamonds are a Human Rights Issue

Over the many years I have been a jeweller and activist, I have always recognised that at some point we would as an industry need to deal with the elephant in the room; namely the millions of alluvial diamond diggers who are treated as dirt by the diamond industry. There can be no denying that in the most opulent of luxury industries, the grey suited nameless and shameless elite sit on the backs of the daily exploited millions whose poverty causes them to pound their bodies in scorching heat and denude the environment of all life so they can earn a dollar a day, whilst the traders and the Bourses get richer by the hour. The very people who were so keen to embrace The Kimberley Process when it was launched are the very self same people who welcomed the export of diamonds from The Marange region of Zimbabwe in 2010

The Fields of Kono - diamond digging.

What is conveniently forgotten in the diamond world is that those that make the money are a small minority. Over the years there have been a number of initiative that have been started, all aimed at improving the lot of the small-scale diamond digger. Whether they have been commercial processes or NGO led initiatives, the few attempts to build a model that can successfully address the difficulties in the sector have in truth not been particularly successful. The Peace Diamond Alliance, The Mwadui Community Diamond Project, Diamond Development Initiative and others have had some success. Yet  if we measure success in terms of impact on the sector as a whole, or even producing a product  to commercial availability then these projects failed.

Even our darling friend The Kimberley Process has finally been exposed in the last 12 months, (highlighted by Human Rights Watch), as being powerless to address conflict, murder, manipulation and the exploitation of small-scale diamond miners in the face of the self-serving vested interest of the Zimbabwean elite. Every diamond mined in Zimbabwe will find its way in to a KPC supply chain, whether through legitimate channels or through the black market.  Out maneuvered and out politicked, the Kimberley Process now is powerless to prevent the diamond markets of the world being flooded with stones from The Marange region. Now the Chinese are actively working to introduce cutting and polishing processes that will bypass any export certifications required by Kimberley as Kimberley only covers the export of rough stone.  Therefore Marange stones will become invisible to the global market . Given the complicit support of this flooding of the market with stones soaked in human rights abuses by The Responsible Jewellery Council The International Bourses, Diamond Manufacturers and and others it is plain to many in the industry that the current diamond industry can no longer be trusted to maintain the ethical integrity of the product that jewellers love so much.

We Need Change

What is needed is a root and branch reassessment of the industry.  We need a new vision and story surrounding the diamond that begins to connect the diamond back to its source. A story that links the diamond as a vehicle for poverty alleviation, for delivering real change on the ground for the ordinary digger who currently sees no value placed upon their contribution to the supply chain. It is my belief that a certified fair trade diamond can begin to address some of the glaring deficiencies in the diamond industry.

To begin with it would address full transparency and traceability from mine to retail. I gave an interview to a journalist last week who told me stories of her spending the day in Hatton Garden London with diamond dealers who either refused to disclose source or didn’t know where their stones were from. Depressingly only some of the dealers disclosed that they were compliant with Kimberley. Yet all failed to make the obvious link that if you don’t where your stones come from a statement about Kimberley is worthless. As we all know stones are routinely smuggled from Zimbabwe to South Africa or Mozambique and then exported under KPCS to the international markets.  And this is just one example of many I can think of.

A Rough Diamond

Secondly a fair trade diamond would have a standard associated with it that can be viewed by the public. This would mean that any stone that came from a certified source would instantly be associated with that public standard so everyone can see what value their purchase has made to the community from which the diamond came. This standard would be independently audited by a genuine third party, thereby giving the trade and the consumer the confidence to trust the source and the claims over the product.

Thirdly a fair trade diamond standard would have a transparent component that would force disclosure on everyone who touches the certified supply chain through a third party audit. Given the high levels of financial non-disclosure, smuggling and iniquity in the current value chain, trading standards in diamonds are desperately needed. How is that we have allowed ourselves as an industry to sell such an emotional and aspirational product like a diamond when we have no way of verifying its financial integrity. Clearly the current supply chain does not work and needs to be called out as dysfunctional.

There are now some attempts within the industry to create a track and trace supply chain, examples being what has happened with some Canadian diamonds as well as the more bulk commodity approach adopted by the De Beers[1] Forever Mark. This is broadly good news to those in the industry who are concerned about transparency. The strength of this system is that it will allow mine to market traceability for ethical jewellers and consumers. The weakness is that it once again seals up the value chain in the hands of the corporate companies who have the financial clout to make this kind of system work. It is no way benefits the small scale digger, who once again is being left out of the value chain.

So fourthly what a certified fair trade diamond will achieve is a supply chain that is rooted in community based diamond mining and is not dependent on corporate money to succeed. Fair trade is an economic process specifically designed to benefit the poor and the marginalised. This is vital if we are to truly address the huge financial imbalance that is in the diamond industry and for the first time strike a positive blow for the small digger and feed the growing ethical consumer markets in the east and here in the west.

Economic justice for the poor in the diamond industry is not a naive idea. Yet a fair trade diamond, like its cousin fair trade gold is no pipe dream. It is a narrative and idea is compelling enough to change the consumers’ view of diamonds. It is not rooted in a reactionary campaign, but rather a proactive movement of jewellers and consumers around the world who are looking for fresh innovative ideas that will deliver better value for the poor and marginalised miners of our world.

A fair trade diamond is a simple idea that I believe has the power to change the reality on the ground for the millions of artisanal diamond miners of our world. I see it as the Holy Grail of the ethical and fair trade jewellery movement.


[1] De Beers is 45% owned by Anglo American the transnational mining giant. Given AA’s desire to start an open cast copper and gold mine in Alaska’s Bristol Bay (http://www.bristolbayalliance.com/) is an unintellectual and irrational action on the part of AA. It could be argued that 45%c of every De Beers stone supports this stupidity.

Fairtrade Fortnight in Havant UK. Talk on Gold

Fairtrade Fortnight 28 Feb to 13 March

This is a chance to celebrate the success of Fairtrade around the world and to learn more about the stories behind of the 4,500+ products now with the Fairtrade Mark

The theme for this year is Show Off your Label

We’re asking everyone to show off about buying Fairtrade. Let people know how your choices support farmers and workers in developing countries.

Fairtrade offers 7.5 million people in the developing world a more secure future.  This means a guaranteed income above world market prices and extra money for community projects like schools, wells and health centres

Havant events include a Fairtrade meal at Havant United Reformed church on 15th March. Tickets available from Sue James 02392 250267.

The after dinner speaker will be Greg Valerio who has just been involved with launching Fairtrade and Fairmined gold in the UK. This will provide a lifeline for thousands of impoverished small-scale and artisanal miners in Bolivia, Colombia, Ecuador and Peru who find themselves at the mercy of unfair markets. Many face exploitation from middle men who pay below market prices and cheat them on weight and purity of gold content.

Being part of the Fairtrade and Fairmined system means miners will receive a set Fairtrade minimum price for their gold, plus the Fairtrade premium to invest in community and business development projects. Plans include improving working conditions at the mines and setting up community projects in education, health, and environmental restoration.

For a full press release see http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/press_office/press_releases_and_statements/february_2011/20_companies_say_i_do_to_fairtrade_and_fairmined_gold.aspx

The Fairtrade gold website http://www.fairtrade.org.uk/gold/

For more information, interviews and images, contact Martine Parry martine.parry@fairtrade.org.uk 020 7440 7695/07886 301486 Or Cristina Echavarria on 07794725521

 

Notes

1. The Havant Fairtrade group meets regularly to promote Fairtrade in Havant and in 2009 the Borough achieved Fairtrade status. Further details from Sue James 02392 250267 or on http://www.portsmouthfairtrade.org.uk/?page_id=1100

 

2. There are lots of ideas and resources on the Fairtrade Foundation website www.fairtrade.org.uk.

3. The full programme for Fairtrade Fortnight locally is on http://www.portsmouthfairtrade.org.uk/?page_id=1894

 

4. The FAIRTRADE Mark is a certification mark and a registered trademark of Fairtrade Labelling Organisations International (FLO) of which the Fairtrade Foundation is the UK member. The Fairtrade Foundation is an independent certification body which licenses the use of the FAIRTRADE Mark on products which meet international Fairtrade standards. This independent consumer label is now recognised by 72% of UK consumers and appears on products as a guarantee that disadvantaged producers are getting a better deal. Today, more than 7.5 million people – farmers, workers and their families – across 58 developing countries benefit from the international Fairtrade system.

5. Over 4,500 products have been licensed to carry the FAIRTRADE Mark including coffee, tea, herbal teas, chocolate, cocoa, sugar, bananas, grapes, pineapples, mangoes, avocados, apples, pears, plums, grapefruit, lemons, oranges, satsumas, clementines, mandarins, lychees, coconuts, dried fruit, juices, smoothies, biscuits, cakes & snacks, honey, jams & preserves, chutney & sauces, rice, quinoa, herbs & spices, seeds, nuts & nut oil, wines, beers, rum, confectionary, muesli, cereal bars, yoghurt, ice-cream, flowers, sports balls, sugar body scrub and cotton products including clothing, homeware, cloth toys, cotton wool and olive oil.

6. 7 in 10 households purchase Fairtrade goods, helping Fairtrade sales reach an estimated £800m in 2009, up from £712m in 2008. There are over 460 producer organisations selling to the UK with 872 certified producer groups in the global Fairtrade system, representing more than 1.5 million farmers and workers.

 

Further information: Sue James 02392 250267 sue.james@yahoo.com