Fair Jewellery Action

Ethical Diamond Sourcing

July 26, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Original article printed in the Professional Jeweller, July 19 2010

By Kat Slowe

It isn’t always easy to identify a truly ethical source of diamonds, but for those seeking to take the extra step, there are organisations that can help.

Despite the many challenges that the industry still faces, ethical sources of diamonds do exist, most notably in Canada and Australia. Australia is best known in the industry for its Argyle Mine, which is the world’s largest producer of diamonds by volume. The mine is owned by Rio Tinto, along with Diavik Mine in Canada and the Murowa Mine in Zimbabwe.

In Canada, the entire mining process is carefully monitored from start to finish. Companies like Polar Bear Limited are certified by the Government of the North West Territories (GNWT), the only government certification currently available.

The diamonds are produced under the strict scrutiny of the Canadian government by Canadian workers at the Ekati or Diavik mines. The system follows a stringent set of laws, which ensure the diamonds are mined responsibly, protecting the Arctic environment and the mine workers.Before it is permitted to commence operations, a company must calculate the impact on vegetation, air and water quality, and local wildlife sustainability. The social and economic impact on northern communities must also be considered.

“It is possible to ethically source with the Canada mark diamonds and the certification that open source materials provide,” CRED director Christian Cheesman says.” I hope that bigger site holders will get on board with that. If people want that certificate of origin, then there will be a premium to pay for it.

“We don’t really put a premium on traceability at the moment,” he adds. “Obviously if we are working with community groups, we will pay them a higher price for their rough and their stones and we don’t pass all that on to our customers, but there will still be a slight increase in price.”

This is a price that Cheesman claims many customers will be happy to pay. As many of the mines that ethical materials provider CRED looks to work with are from artisanal mining communities and follow fair trade principles, an increase in price is inevitable. Also, buying from existing ethical sources in countries such as Canada will not help the progress of sustainable practices in Africa and these take money to develop.

“Many people will be willing to pay more for an engagement ring if it’s not a conflict stone or mined under inhumane conditions,” he says. “You don’t want to have this horrible process lying behind your declaration of undying love, or four-year love for each other, depending on divorce rates.”

The Diamond Development Initiative International (DDII) is another organisation that addresses the problems encountered by artisan diamond diggers, bringing NGOs, governments and the private sector together in a common effort that aims to ensure that diamonds are an engine for development.

The DDII calls these development diamonds, which it describes as ‘diamonds that are produced responsibly, safely, with respect of human and communities’ rights, in conflict-free zones, with benefits to communities and payment of fair prices to miners.’

DDII executive director Dorothee Gizenga says: “It is important for Zimbabwe to get control over their artisanal diamond production. Taking control will stand to bring the Government significant revenues in addition to industrially-mined diamonds, create opportunities for development in the areas of diamond mining and elsewhere; and position their artisanal mining sites for ethical diamond production, which is undoubtedly the new consumer focus, above and beyond conflict-free diamonds.”

The DDII has established a list of aims that it calls its millennium development goals. These form a blueprint agreed to by all of the world’s leading development institutions, and have, according to the organisation, galvanised unprecedented efforts to meet the needs of the world’s poorest.

The list of aims is as follows:
1: Eradicate extreme poverty and hunger
More than a million African and South American artisanal diamond diggers and their families live in absolute poverty, working outside the formal economy, three-quarters of them in countries struggling to recover from the ravages of war. The DDII’s primary objective is to promote fair returns to artisanal miners for their work, thus eradicating extreme poverty and hunger.

2: Achieve universal primary education
A large number of artisanal diamond diggers are children who have dropped out of school. The DDII aims to eliminate the phenomenon of child labour from diamond mining, allowing parents to keep their children in school.

3: Promote gender equality and empower women
Women do not make up a large proportion of the artisanal diamond digging community, but they provide a wide range of support services with little recognition or remuneration. A formalised diamond economy will recognise and incorporate their contribution. Violence, including family and gender violence, which is common among communities of transient miners, will be reduced with the establishment of more settled mining communities.

4: Reduce child mortality
Ending child labour in artisanal diamond mining and improving the returns to adult miners and their families will contribute both directly and indirectly to a reduction in child mortality.

5: Improve maternal health
This is perhaps the only Millennium Development Goal not directly addressed by the DDII, but improved family incomes will contribute indirectly, as will improved health and safety standards for miners, especially where the transmission of HIV/AIDS is concerned.

6: Combat HIV/AIDS, malaria and other diseases
Transient artisanal mining communities are well known vectors for sexually transmitted diseases, including HIV/AIDS. Miners, working for hours every day in polluted water, are vulnerable as well to malaria, schistosomiasis and other water-borne diseases. Improved health, safety and labour standards are prominent objectives of the DDII.

7: Ensure environmental sustainability
Artisanal diamond mining has stripped thousands of square miles of topsoil from arable land across Africa. None of it has been replaced. Forests, animal and fish habitats and natural watercourses have been damaged or destroyed. The DDII promotes environmentally sustainable mining practices and seeks to rehabilitate exhausted diamond fields.

8: Develop a global partnership for development
The DDII aims to replicate the success of the Kimberley Process, which brought governments, industry and NGOs together in common cause to eliminate conflict diamonds. The DDII has already joined key players in the diamond industry together with civil society and development organisations, and has been endorsed by governments in various ways. Where Kimberley is a regulatory system, the DDII will be a comprehensive, long-term partnership for development.

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Announcing the launch of Fair Jewellery Action (FJA)

July 14, 2010 · 1 Comment

Press Release

London, UK. Fair Jewellery Action (FJA) is a Human Rights and Environmental Justice Network within the jewellery sector. FJA promotes ethical and fair trade jewellery business by advocating traceability and transparency in the jewellery supply chain.   FJA’s objective is to direct more of the economic impact of the jewellery sector toward the regenerating of local economies in small-scale artisan producer communities, supporting of cultural integrity and environmental sustainability.

Through its communications platform and standard setting activities, FJA will function as a driving force to consumers, making ethically and fairly traded jewellery the only moral choice. It will support jewellers by connecting them with the source of their material and enabling them to see the social, environmental and market advantage of providing ethical products.

According to Greg Valerio, one of the co-founders of the organisation, “As a starting point, jewellery brands must not lose sight of the simple fact that traceability and transparency are the foundational bedrock upon which any ethical scheme must be judged. If you don’t know where your material comes from, you are morally compromised.”

In addition to supporting jewellers and brands to source traceably and transparently, FJA will be providing a world-first published and electronic ethical and jewellery manual and education materials, available to all jewellers and jewellery businesses.  It will also provide lecture materials to jewellery students, aiming to inspire, facilitate and empower jewellers to become more ethical and fair trade in their business practice.

FJA will host campaigns in support of the rights of indigenous people, communities and small-scale miners affected directly or indirectly by unjust situations involving mining. FJA will be highly focused, supporting only those that it can impact, utilising social media, an established network of suppliers, ethical jewellers, NGOs, press and action on the ground.

FJA is currently supporting the rights of Inuit small-scale ruby miners to mine, own, transform and sell ruby from Greenland without fear of prosecution or marginalisation at the hands of the Danish run Bureau for Mines and Petroleum and neo-colonial business interests.

Recognising that small-scale mining strengthens communities and has the potential to redeem economies in the third world, FJA will support mining projects enabling miners and their products to reach fair trade certification.

FJA will provide financial support, scoping studies and advice from qualified professionals, liaise with locals, practical help in implicating the project along with encouraging public support through press and up-to date information.

FJA is a programme launched in the UK and USA by fair trade jewellers and ethical jewellery advocates Greg Valerio and Marc Choyt. In the UK only, FJA will operate within the charitable trust of The CRED Foundation (no1072426).

Greg Valerio

Greg Valerio, fair trade jewellery pioneer and ethical campaigner, is the founder of CRED Jewellery, the UK and Europe’s first jewellery company to retail fair trade and fully traceable gold and platinum jewellery collections.

He is a regular speaker, lecturer and writer on human rights and environmental issues present in the jewellery supply chain, with the intention of inspiring and delivering best practice across the industry.

Some of the highlights of his work with CRED have been the publication of innovative reports, ‘Towards an Ethical Jewellery Business’ and ‘A Golden Opportunity’, and the formation of a partnership with Oro Verde, a pioneering small-scale mining initiative in the rain forests of Colombia. Since visiting Oro Verde in 2004, he continues to advocate for their groundbreaking social and environmental certification programme.  Oro Verde support indigenous sustainable mining methods for gold and platinum that do not use cyanide or mercury, offering 100% transparency on gold.

In 2005, Greg co-founded the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), an international organisation seeking to lobby for small-scale mining communities among indigenous people groups around the world and has developed, in partnership with the Fairtrade Labeling Organisation (FLO) and Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), the world’s first fairtrade fairmined standard for gold and associated precious metals. He currently serves on the ARM FLO standards committee

Marc Choyt

Marc is the Publisher of fairjewelry.org. Since its founding in 2007, fairjewelry.org has become the most comprehensive trade and consumer resource on ethical jewellery production. It is read by people from 130 countries a month, and receives several hundred visitors a day.

Marc publishes articles in newspapers and trade magazines. He is President of Reflective Images Inc, www.celticjewelry.com, a designer jewellery company located in Santa Fe, NM that was established in 1995. Reflective Images converted its entire production, nationally and internationally, to recycled precious metal, and is focusing on artisan sourcing and production. The company also developed the *F.R.E. transparent sourcing system* and two e-books on ethical sourcing issues: one for the consumer and one for the trade.

Marc is currently spearheading a Fair Trade Manufacturing Principles and Standards Committee which is documented on fairjewelry.org.  At the JCK Show in 2010, Marc was recognized by Jewelers That Care, a nonprofit organization, for his contributions in moving the ethical jewelry supply chain forward.

FJA is calling jewellers and jewellery businesses to join them in engaging with vital social and environmental issues, striving to achieve transparency and traceability in the supply chain from mine to retail.

To become a part of the fair jewellery network and to demonstrate your commitment to traceability and transparency in the jewellery supply chain please contact:

Marc Choyt (USA/Canada) reflective@cybermesa.com

Greg Valerio (UK/EU) greg@gregvalerio.com.

If you are outside North America or Europe feel free to contact either Marc or Greg directly.

For press requiring further details, images etc please contact rosiegamble@gmail.com

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’50 years 50 faces’ CAFOD exhibition

July 12, 2010 · Leave a Comment

CAFOD are launching an exhibition, ’50 years 50 faces’ coinciding with 50 years of independence for the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). At the heart of the exhibition, featuring 40 photographs by CAFOD’s Pascale Palmer and an exhibition trailer by motion animator Adriano Gazza, is the recognition of the need to not just mark the anniversary, but to highlight the ongoing issue of sexual violence and its impact on the women of the DRC.

The exhibition launches on 2nd August at the Morley Gallery before touring for 12 months.

From 1996 to 2003, conflict in the DRC claimed 3.8 million lives, by 2008 disease and starvation had taken the death toll up to 5.4 million. Sexual violence against women has been one of the most horrific aspects of the conflict, it is estimated that since 1996 200,000 rapes have occurred in the DRC. Locals in the eastern province of Sud-Kivu say an average of 40 women are raped per day. CAFOD eight listening rooms in the province, where women can receive counselling and spend time together learning a trade. CAFOD has helped more than 12,000 get back to their feet, physically and mentally, though this programme.

To give to CAFOD’s Congo Crisis Appeal click here

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Gold Global Product Manager Vacancy

July 6, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Fairtrade Labeling and Alliance for Responsible Mining Gold Global product manager is a unique and pioneering job. We need to hire the right person who is passionate and dedicated to delivering fairtrade fairmined gold. if you are interested then please contact Fairtrade Foundation’s Gemma Cartwright on gemma.cartwright@fairtrade.org.uk

To read the job description, key objectives, roles and responsibilities, skills required and for details on how to apply for the position, click here

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Choo Yilin: artisan jewellery with a social conscience

July 2, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Sustainable fine jewellery designer Choo Yilin successfully demonstrates how jewellery design can be linked to a wider-social conscience.

The Singaporean jeweller collaborates with Thailand’s hill tribe artisans to create hand-forged jewellery that combine old-world luxury and modern design. Yilin uses reclaimed, eco-friendly sterling silver, organic gemstones and conflict free diamonds.

The label’s goal is to generate income and employment for a traditionally marginalised community, the Karen hill tribes artisans in northern Thailand. By working with them, the label brings awareness and support to a centuries old culture which might otherwise be in danger of dying out. The label also sheds light on the effects of modernity that traditional indigenous artisans face.

Choo Yilin launched the ‘coral series’ in April of this year at fairtrade Blueprint. The collection uses natural gemstones set in reclaimed 99.9% reclaimed silver to mimic coral – she hopes the collection will highlight the need to preserve coral reefs and the ecological damage that is caused by their destruction.

Choo Yilin is currently exploring launching her ready-to-wear collections on the international market.

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Greg Valerio to speak at Ethical Fashion Network launch

July 1, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Greg Valerio will be the guest speaker at the launch of EcoChic magazine’s Ethical Fashion Network, on 20th September. Greg will be speaking on ‘the trials, tribulations and rewards of running an ethical business’. The event, in Hove, East Sussex, is open to all ethical business leaders and friends, providing an opportunity to network, collaborate, share stories and build community.

Click here for more information

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Fair Jewellery Action response to Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) call for public feedback on chain of custody paper

June 29, 2010 · 2 Comments

We welcome the opportunity to comment on RJC‘s latest documents.   We recognise the challenges and see the logic in the initial steps taken to assure chain of custody.

Fair Jewellery Action is a new network being established by Marc Choyt of Reflective Images (USA) and Greg Valerio (founder of CRED Jewellery and a founding board member of ARM) whose aim is to draw together the breadth of responsible jewellers who are committed to transparency and traceability in the jewellery supply chain to ensure the highest possible standards that reflect these crucial values.

Below is FJA’s comments on the RJC chain of custody discussion paper.

RJC offered a variety of supply chain custody models to comment on. In our experience if RJC is going to fulfill its stated objectives of ensuring consumer confidence in the gold and diamond jewellery supply chain, then the only two credible supply chain models that are open for it to pursue would be ‘track & trace’ and ‘bulk commodity’. Although these systems are more expensive to implement in the early stages, we have found that with the required will, clear expertise and the current profit returns that leading RJC members post it is within the RJC’s grasp and they are achievable.

In our experience as leading ethical and fair trade jewellers, the only system that can give total assurance to customers of jewellery products is a system that ensures full 100% traceability from mine to retail.

Mass Balance and Book and Claim will not, based upon our experience in the fine jewellery sector, deliver on the stated mission objectives of the RJC. In fact we believe that it will leave the RJC open to the accusation of green washing, as these approaches separate and disconnect the source from the consumer. As all jewellers know, gold and diamonds are not just commodities that are sold, they are aspirations and emotions that are marketed and it is in these marketed aspirations that currently the true value of our product lies. We understand the moral disconnect that currently exists in the jewellery sector between source and finished product which is creating the difficulties we are now struggling with, but a mass balance/book and claim system will not eradicate bad practice, it will only serve to distract from it, leaving our industry rightfully open to the accusation of misleading the consumer.

In final addition to the chain of custody discussion, we note that in the way the framework for the discussion on chain of custody has been presented, it appears that the small-scale mining sector and the environment, who are key and foundational stakeholders in any supply chain, have been overlooked. In our opinion this oversight needs to be corrected before solid progress can be made by the Council on this vital issue.

We also offer these broader comments on RJC’s overall position:

  • RJC needs to adopt the United Nations Declaration of Indigenous Rights as a core principle.   A commitment to this Declaration would be a strong statement of advocacy toward producer communities.
  • RJC should broaden its governance to include civil society groups and organisations that can represent the majority of the mining sector; namely the small-sale miners. Currently the governance body of the RJC is only representative of the numerical minority in our industry and supply chain.

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Fairtrade Labelling Organisations (FLO) release Annual Report 09 -10

June 23, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Accompanying the release of the report Rob Cameron, FLO‘s Chief Executive, writes:

“2009 was a challenging but rewarding year for FLO as we began putting our new global strategy into action. We strengthened our senior leadership team, created new business units and increased our focus on producer support, new markets, product development and global partnerships. We also began a major overhaul of Fairtrade Standards.

What’s more, in one of the most difficult economic years on record, consumers remained committed to purchasing Fairtrade products and sales grew in all countries. These are just a few of our success stories included in the report. Also included for the first time in our report are some candid external perspectives on Fairtrade and FLO’s work from some leading thinkers.

But I’ll stop here and encourage you to read on to find out more about FLO’s contribution to  sustainable development and alleviating poverty in 2009 and to take a look at the challenges ahead in 2010.”

Click here to read FLO’s Annual Report in full

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Martin Rapaport begins three day protest fast outside Kimberley Process meeting

June 21, 2010 · Leave a Comment

Rapaport Press Release:
Martin Rapaport, Chairman of the Rapaport Group has begun a 3 day fast outside the Kimberley Process (KP) Meetings. The water-only fast began at sundown Sunday, June 20 and will continue until sundown Wednesday, June 24 following the close of the KP meetings in Tel Aviv, Israel.
Rapaport is fasting to protest the issuing of Kimberley Process Certificates for blood diamonds and to draw attention to the fact that it is unethical for the diamond and jewelry trade to rely upon the Kimberley Process Certificate Scheme or System of Warranties to ensure that diamonds are not involved in severe human rights violations such as murder, mutilation, rape, and forced servitude.
Martin Rapaport statement:
“The Kimberley Process (KP) is aiding and abetting severe human rights violations as it certifies, legalizes and legitimizes blood diamonds. Corrupt governments have turned the KP on its head. Instead of eliminating human rights violations the KP is legitimizing them.
“The diamond trade and consumers cannot trust the Kimberley Process, its system of warranties, or those that promote the Kimberley Process as an assurance of the legitimate source of diamonds. We must face the fact that the Kimberley Process is a politicized government-controlled initiative that is incapable of eliminating human rights violations in the diamond sector. It’s time for the World Diamond Council and responsible NGO’s to withdraw from the KP.
“The solution is outside the KP. The diamond trade must take full responsibility for how and where it buys its diamonds. It must stop hiding behind the KP and recognize that it has moral and ethical obligations that transcend national and international laws. While governments cannot enforce international human rights standards due to sovereignty issues, diamond traders can use their purchasing power to enforce such standards. The key to understanding this issue is that, in the end, our diamonds are only as good as we are.”
Greg Valerio fully endorses and supports Rapaport’s demonstration that the fight for justice in the mineral sector is not just an economic one but also a spiritual one.

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London Jewellery Week 2010 – The Ethical Debate Summary

June 18, 2010 · 3 Comments

On the 12th June, London Jewellery Week entered into the world of ethical jewellery. For the first time at the Treasure Show (the showcase event for design talent) there was an intentional section called Essence, that gathered together the UK’s ethical jewellery talent and gave them all a platform from which to showcase their collections. April Doubleday, Leblas, Oria Jewellery, CRED Jewellery, Ute Decker, Fifi Bijoux, Choo Yilin, Linnie Mclarty and Avasarah were just a few of the designers and brands demonstrating the UK jewellery scene has a growing, vibrant and maturing ethical jewellery scene.

As the host for the ethical debate I opened with a few observations from the past few years. The UK jewellery market has certainly undergone something of a small but significant evolution in its embracing of ethical issues as a core part of the supply chain in the last five years. With traceability, fairtrade, ethics, human rights, environmental issues and recycling all becoming part of the language of jewellery in the UK we have seen a shift in understanding and acceptance that ethics is an integral part of what brings value to a piece of jewellery. However more significantly than a shift in language has been the emergence of a number of key networks, organisations and institutions whose aim is to play their part in the delivery of social and environmental justice throughout the jewellery supply chain. Fairtrade Labeling Organisation, Alliance for Responsible Mining, Diamond Development Initiative, Responsible Jewellery Council, National Association of Goldsmiths new supply chain ethics working group and many others are beginning to play their significant part in transforming the injustices in the jewellery supply chain to a more equitable system. There is real traction now in the industry to drive a values revolution built upon transparency, sustainability, human rights and environmental justice. In my opinion the UK jewellery sector is leading the way in mine to market relationships.

The ethical debate, the first of its kind for LJW saw Estelle Levin a specialist in sustainable supply chains and small scale mining, Ute Decker a political economics graduate turned excellent sculptural jeweller, Choo Yilin a Thai based jeweller who recently launched a sustainable jewellery label under her name and Christian Cheeseman Designer and Director of the leading ethical jewellery brand CRED all challenged to give their replies to the debate question ” What are the next ethical steps the UK jewellery industry needs to take?’

I summarise their points as follows naturally avoiding any repetition:

Uto Decker

  • There is a need for more suppliers of ethical material so there can be more choice.
  • Using recycled materials has real value.

Estelle Levin

  • She defined ethical as adding more benefits to miners and managing the harms that we do.
  • The Environment is a stakeholder in our work and should be considered when taking decisions.
  • There needs to be real honesty in marketing jewellery.
  • To have major impact we need to focus on small-scale miners.

Choo Yilin

  • We need to make sure that what we do is real and not just green-washing our supply chains

Christian Cheesman

  • There should be a more deeper understanding of what luxury is all about
  • Traceability and transparency are foundational to all ethical claims
  • Gemstones and Diamonds should also become Fairtrade certified

In conclusion, despite my continued amazement at how open the UK industry is to delivering more justice through its supply chain, I remain humbled by the scale of the work we need to undertake. There are thousands of jewellers in the UK who are still unengaged in the issues, there is still only a small amount of supply of traceable materials available for jewellers to work with. So there remain huge challenges we will need to engage with in order to sustain the change. But it is a journey and to that end we are all walking. There is true dignity in work that small scale miners do in unearthing the treasures of creation, there is real creative genius in the way the jeweller takes these materials and enhances them in to objects of real beauty

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